Robben Island

Robben Island is about 12km from the mainland; it is where Nelson Mandela and other Black liberation leaders were held as political prisoners.  We saw the house where Robert Sobukwe was held for six years before he went mad.  The stories were poignant and inspiring, and a testament to the perseverance of the human spirit. 

I was particularly touched by Sobukwe’s story, a freedom fighter who later broke away from Mandela and the ANC, to form the PAC (Pan-African Congress).  He was held as a “visitor” of the government on Robben Island in a fenced-in house, where he was not allowed to ever leave the fenced area.  He was kept under guard and not allowed to speak to anyone.  His guards were switched every few months as part of an elaborate plan to prevent him from making friends. 

Sobukwe played a significant role in the liberation movement, yet he is barely remembered today.  He was kept on Robben Island during the same time that Mandela and other significant ANC leaders were there.  I was most moved by the story told by our tour guide: every day Sobukwe would watch as Mandela and the other ANC leaders made their way from their prison cells to the lime quarry to work. He was not allowed to call out to them, but he would stand by the doorway of his house and grab a handful of dirt, then let the earth sift through his fingers.  This gesture was meant to communicate that “We are the sons of Africa and we will fight til the end. La Lucha continua.”

The island is a silent witness to the many horrors and deaths that occurred during the years of Black oppression and apartheid.  Yet, it was also witness to some of the most amazing acts of human resilience.  The smallest university in the world was established in a small cave in the lime quarry where the ANC leaders labored.  The ANC leaders found ingenious ways to disseminate information and communicate with other political prisoners.  Eventually they were able to develop a sophisticated underground education system in the prison.  Their teachings were said to have even reached far beyond the island’s shores to other parts of the African continent.

The walking tour of the prison was given by a former political prisoner who was held for conspiracy against the South African government and for recruiting for the ANC.  He spoke of his experience in the famous prison and how he survived.  One can’t help but believe that right will always prevail and to feel inspired by the incredible strength displayed by the liberation heroes of South Africa.